The Sweet Spot by Bill Yosses & Peter Kaminsky

Author:Bill Yosses & Peter Kaminsky
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Penguin Publishing Group
Published: 2017-10-24T04:00:00+00:00

THE LADY M

MAKES 20 TO 24 CREPES/SERVES 10 TO 12 • The inspiration for this cake comes from New York City’s magnificent Lady M Cake Boutique on 77th Street. In my homage, tofu, which is definitely not a traditional crepe ingredient, works beautifully with the chestnut filling of the original to create just the right texture. Orange zest, perhaps because of its volatile oils, amplifies the effect of sweetness. It’s not that it makes the crepes any sweeter; it just makes you think that they are. I call for wheat starch here, which is found in Asian markets. It makes the batter looser so that it flows onto the crepe pan with a super-thin consistency. If you can’t find it, all-purpose flour is an acceptable substitute.

36 fresh chestnuts or packaged peeled chestnuts

2 cups wheat starch

6 large eggs

¼ cup almond or walnut oil, plus more for the pan

Grated zest and juice of 2 oranges (about ¼ cup juice)

4 cups whole milk

Two 15.5-ounce cans unsweetened chestnut puree

6 tablespoons orange blossom or chestnut honey

1 pound (2 cups) silken tofu

2 cups heavy cream

1Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2If using fresh chestnuts, score the shells before roasting. Hold the chestnut down on a work surface, flat side up, with one hand. Pierce the flat side with the tip of a kitchen knife. Remove the steadying hand and plunge the knife into the chestnut. Pull the chestnut off the knife and repeat at a 90-degree angle to make an X in the shell. Place the chestnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast until the scored part of the shell curls back on itself, about 20 minutes. Let cool, then peel away the shell and remove the meat with a fork. Let cool completely, then finely chop.

3Tap the wheat starch through a fine-mesh sieve into a large mixing bowl. Set aside.

4In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and oil. Whisk in the zest and juice. Pour the mixture into the bowl of wheat starch and give it two stirs with the whisk. Add the milk and whisk until completely smooth.

5Lightly coat a nonstick crepe pan or a low-sided 10-inch skillet with a little canola oil. Use a paper towel to spread it evenly onto the bottom of the pan. Heat over medium heat until a drop of water sizzles in the pan. Pour ½ cup of the batter into the hot pan, just off center, while picking up the pan and tilting it so that the batter covers the bottom entirely. As you tilt, pour a bit more batter in the bare spots. Once the bottom of the pan is covered, set it back down on the heat and cook until the edges are slightly browned and the surface of the crepe is matte and dry, 30 to 60 seconds. Using a spatula and your free hand, lift up the crepe and flip it over. Cook for 30 seconds more.

6Transfer the cooked crepe to a plate and repeat with the remaining batter, stacking the crepes on top of one another if you plan to use them immediately.

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